The fabric style was made famous by Issey Miyake in the early '90s with his Pleats Please collection (find mesmerizing footage of how pleats like that are created here).
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Solange chose pleats upon pleats the entire night, first wearing a bright yellow ruffle number with matching footless tights, then changed into a cream crinkled two-piece sweatshirt and matching pant.
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They say that 19 pleats make a truly perfect khinkali.
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In 1994 Mr. Miyake introduced his successful line, Pleats Please.
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Joe Si: Usually, a normal soup dumpling has 26 pleats.
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The first part of the pleating section is a feast of color that traces the inventive pleats of Mariano Fortuny, Mary McFadden (who figured out how to make Fortuny's pleats mechanically) and Issey Miyake.
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The outfit featured pleats across the top and a belted waist.
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Further designs bore spiral shapes, others had stuck-out twisted pleats.
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Some of their shorts have billows and pleats that evoke skirts.
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Kylie wore pleats while in New York for Fashion Week in 2016.
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Those micro pleats are incredibly flattering, forgiving, and fun to wear, too.
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A nod to the fan on the album cover, just all the pleats.
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Second Image: Issey Miyake Pleats Please Square-Print Dress, $3653, available at Matches.
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First Image: Issey Miyake Pleats Please Madame T Scarf, $425, available at Totokaelo.
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The artists used carefully calculated folds, pleats and color to create the art.
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And Ms. Roitfeld's creation had a series of tight pleats through the midriff.
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Make sure the number of pleats in your xlb is always divisible by three.
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She smiles at me—suddenly, mirthlessly—and the skin pleats around her wide mouth.
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With lush pleats, eyelet details, lace and embroidery, these looks are made for joy.
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The artists used carefully calculated folds, pleats and color to create the art pieces.
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And yes — the photo-rich book is replete with seed pearls and mushroom pleats.
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Beatrice rocked a red dress — with a hint of pink in the pleats and piping!
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Other dresses had cut-out features as well as plenty of pleats for the evening.
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For a very skillful chef, he can even make 30 pleats on a soup dumpling.
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More pleats means it has the prettier look, which makes you want to eat more.
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His fists rest lightly on hips clad in neatly tailored trousers with triple inverted pleats.
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They're made of silky triacetate, which doesn't wrinkle, keeps its pleats and is easily washable.
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In the end, the Queen Bee made an entrance in a honeycomb of rosy pleats.
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Dresses were still in construction, with pleats painstakingly pressed and sewn and ballgowns in pieces.
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At both locations, the characteristically intricate pleats of each xiao long bao are tight and neat.
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Pleats and dress trains, as well long and wide sleeves recalled the movement of the water.
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The dull blue and never-ending ruffled pleats are a bit too much for us, thanks.
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Citkowitz's narrative flows seamlessly from past to present, folding time into pleats, shaking them gracefully loose.
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J.W. Anderson Tie-front Cotton and Linen-blend Top, $290, available at MatchesFashion; Pleats Please Issey Miyake Pleated Circle Skirt, $510, available at Saks Fifth Avenue; Pleats Please Issey Miyake Cropped Straight Pleated Trousers, $264, available at Selfridges; Tabitha Simmons Leticia Sandals, $625, available at Farfetch.
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First, look for pant silhouettes that have built-in structure, like crisp pleats or stiff, straight legs.
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Creating those perfect pleats requires a dexterity but, as Wong cheerfully tells me, pleating is just decorative.
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No matter, for the real momos are as big as ever, looking ready to burst their pleats.
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As the pleats, folds and cuts emerge through this process of looking, the still image is animated.
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Look: Helen Mirren, wearing a long-sleeve layered number with accordion pleats, gave us grown-up princess vibes.
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The collections cannily combined the audacious (trousers with a dozen pleats) and the accessible (silk-screened T-shirts).
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Designs in pale pink or white dominated the show, with pleats and gauzy skirts galore and intricate layered numbers.
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They would huddle shoulder-to-shoulder around long, cluttered tables, sewing pleats, pinning patterns, and threading plumes through netting.
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At Dries Van Noten, wool trousers ballooned with pleats and white shirts billowed with a crisp surplus of cotton.
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Called "A Patchwork," the offering interpreted its title in heavy woolen coats, asymmetric plaid patterns on dresses, and contrasting pleats.
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For nearly 25 years, Issey Miyake's Pleats Please has delighted those who appreciate conceptual design and comfort in equal measure.
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A black cashmere cape, the seams picked out in little pompoms, segued into a dress color-blocked in tiers of pleats.
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"Citkowitz's narrative flows seamlessly from past to present, folding time into pleats, shaking them gracefully loose," our reviewer, Dylan Landis, says.
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There were amphora-shaped dresses of compressed pleats, draped chiffon pieces corseted with "cracked" marble and sandals with columns as heels.
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"It feels so old-guard but they'll make you anything," even guayaberas, linen shirts with four pockets and two vertical pleats.
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For her collection, Chiuri interprets the "New Look" again, in ivory organza with a peplum of pleats above wide chiffon culottes.
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Leon Kalajian is a pleat maker who makes patterns and runs the machines and steamers that put folds — pleats — in fabric.
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Tops were architectural: sculpted with pleats; jackets and tops were asymmetric; skirts were paneled and big shawls were draped to form cascades.
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It includes clothing made from silicone, pleats that take 200 hours to fold, and sequins that get tacked on individually by hand.
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The result is pleats that take on new often sculptural shapes as the wearer moves and are—like the material—near-indestructible.
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But some women among them found paths to freedom, hiding messages in the pleats of their skirts or even in their braids.
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Once you've filled out your size profile, you can customize elements that go into each garment like pockets, pleats, collars, and cuffs.
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These dream shorts are always the same: barely grazing the knee with graceful pleats and fabric that smacks of really expensive tuxedo trousers.
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The off-shoulder dress featured a wrapped bodice, floor-length pleats and a billowing cape that gave her a dramatic, yet delicate look.
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I liked the box pleats because when she's walking it's a very pretty, elegant movement, and when she sits it falls so nicely.
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Middleton's stunning A-line gown by Alexander McQueen features deep pleats and the strong tailored lines that the future Queen seems to love.
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Flattened out to some extent, you can still see these omnipresent wrinkles, pleats, and ripples ramifying around these paintings even from a distance.
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They stretch the length of the canvas to zigzag like an accordion's pleats, overlaid with slime-green blades of grass that resemble nematodes.
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I counted at least six different needlework techniques—including smocking, pin pleats, and rosettes—that descended from puffed shoulder to netting-frilled wrist.
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Plus, they feel as comfortable as stretchy palazzo pants; I think it's because of all the space the pleats afford your middle to breathe.
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Maybe a stretchy dress for date night or one of those terrifying T-shirts with, like, pleats down the side to accommodate the bump.
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It maintains its structured pleats through the day so you always look put-together, but the elastic waist makes it as comfy as loungewear.
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Hungry City In winter, momos are salvation: hot dumplings with swirled pleats, fresh from the steamer, arriving in a cloudy rush of ascending souls.
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Their puckers and pleats convey the oceanic sweep of history, and his abstract compositions bristle with attention to trade, slavery, consumerism, and the environment.
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But it's possible that the dark blue and light blue pleats merely created the illusion that the outline of her legs was visible underneath.
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But the "kids" have finally caught on, and you can now find micro-pleats on every rack in every store, sold at every price point.
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" — JIMMY KIMMEL "Bill Gates has two goals in life: One is to eradicate AIDS, and two, to bring back khakis with the pleats in front.
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Tawny Elaine Godin of Saratoga Springs, New York, wore an elegant gown with flowing pleats and a dipped neckline before being crowned Miss America 1976.
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The new host will be wearing the signature green striped polo shirt and khaki pants that previous hosts wore, but likely without pleats in the pants.
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" Deaville pointed out that, from the images, you can sort of make out the whale's distinctive "throat pleats, adjacent to what may be a pectoral fin.
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Trousers with sequins sewed inside pleats were paired with open-collared shirts unbuttoned to the navel, while exquisitely tailored suits came in luxurious, light-catching fabrics.
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Aside from its stables, Chantilly is also known for its lace production, and lashings appeared throughout the collection as graphic inlays, dense ruffles and skirt pleats.
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See the winged victory pleats of Cate Blanchett's gold Mary Katrantzou, curling around as if they were about to unfurl, paired with a crystal bra/harness.
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Short leather jackets with patchwork pockets and trousers billowing with pleats like chaps at the side, to create an hourglass silhouette for both men and women.
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Instead of graduating in something off the rack, she and her mom put together a spectacular one-of-a-kind dress with pleats and hand-painted flowers.
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At the show, the supermodel wore a structured lavender Atelier Versace dress with a woven bodice and sequin pleats, that few other women could ever pull off.
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Eight years later, those pleats reappeared, their proportions exaggerated, stretched higher and bent deeper, in the walls at the Teletón Children's Rehabilitation Center in the city's outskirts.
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There was also an array of eye-catching pleats in blue, orange, green, yellow, burgundy and black created with special baking and steam techniques, in billowy shapes.
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The surcoat had deep pleats with gold-dotted stripes and he wore a mockingbird pin on his collar to represent the sigil he chose for his house.
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While skirt trends have been following the route of hiked-up midi lengths and metallic pleats, minis have been plotting a quiet comeback in an unexpectedly cool way.
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Whether it's Issey Miyake's signature pleats, a jacket held up by safety pins or emblazoned with your favourite manga character, if you've got the artistic flair, flaunt it.
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The Micro PleatIssey Miyake's Pleats Please collections have been quietly flying under the radar for the past few years, but your kooky art professor was right all along.
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Cactus ribs likewise play multiple roles, allowing the plant to expand in wet times and contract in dry periods, accordion-style, helping to trap humidity between the pleats.
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The pointy shoes added a level of sophistication to her girly ensemble, which included a blush pink dress featuring feminine pleats, plus beachy waves that complemented her soft makeup.
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Since then, pleats have been the uniform of Miyake fanatics and art obsessives alike — but they've earned a reputation for being more for Palm Springs retirees than young people.
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" The release said: "Despite the traditional aesthetic, the dress features modern design elements such as power pleats and racerback construction, which work in tandem to enable the athlete's movement.
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Tailored jackets and trousers are crafted from navy Ventile — a British wartime innovation of oxidized cotton for resin-free weatherproofing — and feature twisted pleats that cleverly conceal spacious pockets.
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Also in the 19-piece collection are sharp accordion pleats, either in the sleeves or around the hip, and fragmented shirts that hang from multiple straps, almost like overalls.
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Earlier, the northern lights, or aurora borealis, were the inspiration at the Issey Miyake show, with models wearing voluminous coats as well as plenty of the label's signature pleats.
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One of Issey Miyake's 3D pleated dresses is shown alongside a cluster of 1950s paper lanterns by the Japanese artist Isamu Noguchi — who influenced Miyake's seminal Pleats Please designs.
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A series of black and white, turquoise and dark orange outfits — robes, dresses with puffed up shoulders and tops worn with black trousers — created optical illusions with their winding pleats.
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ANTONIA BYATT'S slim and elegant new book, "Peacock & Vine", is about two textile designers: Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949: think tiny silk pleats) and William Morris (1834-96: think willow branches).
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The high-waisted culottes come with fashionably cut front pleats, slit pockets, and a hemline just above the ankle to show off whatever adorable shoes you're pairing with the look.
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The combination of the stripes and the pleats gave the fabric a dizzying, holographic quality, as if the garment had been projected onto the mannequin, rather than constructed around it.
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And there are older pieces, including an evening dress made in 1969 by the French designer known as Madame Grès, whose beige pleats are cinched by a brown knotted belt.
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A few hours to chill, then into the oven, from which it emerges as a great mottled crepe with burnished whorls and, inside, close-set layers like an accordion's pleats.
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In addition to achieving a custom fit, many brands offer further customization options like choosing the collar on your shirt, the pleats on your pants, or adding a personalized monogram.
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Ms. Yiqing, the founder of a Paris-based couture label that bears her name, is known for her intricate work on pleats, interwoven fabrics and a sculptural approach to volume.
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You have Alessandro Michele to thank for the piece's prevalence: His Gucci runway debut for fall '15 featured pleats aplenty, and he's tinkered with the style in recent collections as well.
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Now he is a chef, making laphing, slippery bands of steamed dough coiled like cinnamon rolls, glossed with chile at the center; and momos with meticulous pleats, pinched at the neck.
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A couple of elements stand out: the students sewed the space suit out of a packing blanket, which Savage points out was clever because it came with pleats already sewn in.
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Slim and small-breasted, she wears a flowing dress that exposes her forearms and part of her chest and falls in pleats to the floor, revealing the tips of her pointed slippers.
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A few things to note before you wear micro-pleats: Despite being textured, the fabric shows every crease, lump, and bump, so you'll have to pay extra attention to what you're wearing underneath.
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PARIS (Reuters) - Designer labels presented an array of offerings for women's winter wardrobes at Paris Fashion Week on Friday, with Dior mixing dark silhouettes with brighter prints and Issey Miyake showcasing colorful pleats.
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Eventually, Sikich was able to point to where the lions were: in a drainage near the top of the green hill, where the terrain formed gentle pleats, like fabric beneath a cinched belt.
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And so when Trump approached me like every other bully, he had hired me to roast him and comes toward me with the fucking gut hanging out and his balls are filling his pleats.
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Metallic pleats present an approachable (but still statement-making) manifestation of this new, flowery aesthetic, and they're much less involved than the trompe l'oeil embellishments and comically oversized accessories now synonymous with the brand.
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But it was the only dish I needed: momos — dumplings from the Himalayas, with sheer skins in a swirl of pleats — made by Thubten Amchok, a former Buddhist monk from Amdo in eastern Tibet.
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The show begins and ends with several of Mr. Alaïa's final works, including a collared chain mail evening gown with wafer-thin black chiffon pleats that was finished by his studio after his death.
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The brand is known for its pleats as well as use of technology and Miyamae played with volumes and textures in the Autumn/Winter 2019 line, making tops, skirts and coats seem multi-dimensional.
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Ms. Denisova's husband is from the Republic of Georgia, and after traveling to that country last summer she was inspired to adapt his mother's version of khinkali — grand, imposing dumplings with topknots and swagged pleats.
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But such technique — the way fabric was seamed on the diagonal on the pelvis and then released at the thigh to create a waterfall of extravagant pleats — is too subtle to carry the small screen.
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In another novelty, they are made with exactly 400 pleats, to symbolize the roughly four centuries of Turkish dominion that the revolution brought to an end, while the ornately-embroidered waistcoat bears secret Orthodox Christian symbols.
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The way to eat them without losing that sweet, sweet broth is to nibble the top where the pleats join up and slurp the hot liquid, before dispatching the rest of the dumpling down the hatch.
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Norma Kamali Sleeping Bag coat, $21, available at Norma Kamali; Rachel Comey top; Pleats Please by Issey Miyake turtleneck; Pyer Moss pants; Karen Walker sunglasses; Salomon boots; Vita Fede Casio earrings, $2150, available at Vita Fede.
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From a dress whose rubber spikes were shaped by magnets to the mesmerizing process by which the world's most famous pleats are created, these are man-meets-machine making-of videos that need to be seen.
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No matter the fabric content, when the label for an item with a decorative finish (such as moiré or pleats) or delicate beading recommends dry cleaning, don't ignore it — those details are very easy to ruin.
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To that end, the new version of the suit has a narrower silhouette (that's a good thing), but it still has two pleats on the pants and three mother-of-pearl buttons on the jacket cuffs.
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Rather than parading single-file past viewers on a catwalk, Kondo's models twirled around the massive hall in striped "parasol" frocks featuring Issey Miyake's trademark pleats, while others in lightweight nylon raincoats zigzagged on electric skateboards.
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Rather than parading single-file past viewers on a catwalk, Kondo's models twirled around the massive hall in striped "parasol" frocks featuring Issey Miyake's trademark pleats, while others in lightweight nylon raincoats zigzagged on electric skateboards.
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Since humpbacks are baleen whales, they'll gulp down entire mouthfuls of water by expanding a set of 14 to 35 long throat pleats—critters included—and sift out their food through baleen filters made of stiff keratin.
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Their tailcoats were creased and muddied, tailored short and tight in front, with pleats in the rear creating a hunchback effect; Heyl, the most famous tailor in Paris at that time, specialized in this intentionally bizarre shape.
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For instance, a lively series of pieces from Issey Miyake's ground-breaking Pleats Please line has pieces made of polyester that is heat-pleated only after the garment is machine sewn; a process he developed in 1988.
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She added folds and pleats to skirts and sometimes cutouts at the hip to create a loose, motile silhouette that shifted on the body, exposing glimpses of underpinnings like body-con turtlenecks cropped just under the bust.
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Take, for example, the satin top and skirt from the Blood and Roses Collection of 2015: Its ruffles and pleats don't adorn hems or sleeves or necklines; they wind into dense concentric circles resembling eccentric fire hoses.
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The resulting clothes — which will be available in Mackintosh's new store which opens in New York this spring — have a distinctly Mod-like feel; McCoach raised the belts and nipped in Mackintosh's coats with pleats at the back.
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The sharply angled hem of the gray pleats — jutting planes — evokes severity, while the black interior of a shallow, box-like form above it, which is mounted to the wall and open on the right side, invites inspection.
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Sure, you might miss your flight this summer after waiting in line for three hours—the highlight of which is getting your balls ever so violently twiddled as an underpaid man in blue gloves checks you for explosive pleats.
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Ice cream innovators have figured out how to swirl a tutu of cotton candy around a cone of soft serve, shape ice into pleats and turn a baby watermelon into a bowl for shaved ice, watermelon balls and meringues.
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The assembled friends were all dressed in pieces from the new Telfar collection: T-shirts with theatrical scarf-tie collars, cotton button-downs made up of minute pleats, gathered velour pants with legs so wide they resembled flowing skirts.
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We're no longer hung up on simple khaki coats from the femme fatale era of Hollywood, nor do we need another thin, belted option in obvious reds and grays; but added embellishments like skirt pleats, satin finishes, and oversized shoulders?
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While her yellow Christian Siriano gown on the red carpet appeared to be all old Hollywood glamour, don't let the ladylike pleats and plunging neckline distract you from her hot pink Joyce Echols heels finished off with a tiny gun holster.
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And now Madam President Claire Underwood (Robin Wright) has assumed the Oval Office in season 6, she's bringing her frosty smile and no-nonsense ambition with her — and trailing along on her skirt pleats is a shadowy operative from her past.
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Dear Miss Manners: I've begun to notice that many stores do not remove the basting stitches on coats or skirts with kick pleats, and I suspect a lot of people might not know the little "X" in back is usually temporary.
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Intensity Optic Boat Neck pullover, $218, available at Orboro; Rachel Comey skirt; Pleats Please by Issey Miyake pants; Acne Technical shoes, $500, available at Acne; Brother Vellies Melon Curly Goat Mini Island bag, $995, available at Brother Vellies; BRRCH necklace.
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Sometimes that meant the body itself was obscured, as loose Grecian columns in a cascade of crepe pleats swung down from the neck and shoulders in the kind of simplicity that takes hours to achieve (effort can be hidden, too).
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That's what Michael Kors was thinking about, anyway, when he revisited a cape (one of many in this collection, mixed in among the paisley pleats and hammered metal sequins, the organic denim and shearling) he first made 21 years ago.
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Perhaps most subversively of all, at Calvin Klein, Raf Simons retooled the idea of an executive power suit with long-hemmed skirts (in pleats or thigh-high slits) anchoring oversized jackets, adding a protective shield from the elements: environmental, political, or otherwise.
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From looking so long at these seals, the subject of her thesis at University College London and her love ever since, she could tell the styles not only of different cities but of different workshops, from the carving of pleats or hair.
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Every six months, the city's craftsmen and fournisseurs would make their rounds from house to house with sample cases, to show off their latest creations: François Lesage with embroidery, Gérard Lognon with pleats, Raymond Massaro with shoes, and Robert Goossens with jewelry.
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On Thursday, Owens sat the fashion industry around a large pool at the Palais de Tokyo, placed black ponchos neatly on each seat, and showed a beautiful group of obfuscated chitons and twisted micro-accordion pleats with very good chunky Teva-like sandals.
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Watanabe's '90s "techno couture" reflected a general thrust toward space-age futurism incited by the millennium; his fall 2015 collection, a symphony of accordion pleats, was the most extreme and accomplished example of the technique in a season awash with fabric folding.
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A few weeks into my stay, we'd grown familiar enough that he would toddle right up to me and stretch out his neck, its skin sagging into crepey pleats, and let me pat his head, closing his little black eyes as I did.
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One dress in particular stuck in my head: a white slip with a giant Greek marble profile silk-screened on the body under a scrim of black tulle that had been tacked into pleats on one side, like a piece of portable chiaroscuro.
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A visitor to the Melorra site — Ms. Yeramilli says Melorra means "forever young" in Norse mythology — is presented with designs grouped into collections for work, party or casual wear and suggestions for style trends such as crop tops, folk flowers and pleats.
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PARIS (Reuters) - French designer Jean Paul Gaultier evoked a sea journey to Japan at his latest Haute Couture fashion show on Wednesday, in a riot of colours and pleats that drew celebrities including actress Catherine Deneuve and model Irina Shayk to the front now.
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One lacy spider web was laser-cut from wool; another knitted in micro-pleats from steel and wool to create a dense, swirling exoskeleton; another composed of glistening 3-D printed, transparent laser-cut hexagons (5,000 of them) as airy and alluring as soap bubbles.
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The subtlety of details like deep inverted pleats in the trousers and oversize patches on the coat pockets called to mind the exaggerated gentlemanly elegance of the Congolese dandies called Les Sapeurs, a contraction from the French for Society of Tastemakers and Elegant People.
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The time was ripe for Chanel and her pared-down men's wear-influenced styles, such as the 1916 V-neck, sailor-collar silk jersey blouse, its defined waistline cascading into loose pleats, and a 1917 hat, devoid of any frippery save ribbon trim, on display.
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In one extraordinary piece, Passarello pleats together the timeline of the history of electricity in America with that of the history of elephants in America, weaving light and darkness, electrocution and executions into a scorching meditation on the violence at the heart of modernity.
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Though she is also part of the Nike stable, she has her own line with the brand, and this tournament, she seems to be channeling Audrey Hepburn in a little black (or white) dress, complete with cap sleeves, high neck and flashes of pink between the pleats.
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Mr. Lydon was wearing a playful ensemble that seemed a fitting counterpoint to Mr. Miyake's sculptural confections: Valentino sneakers, an oversize yellow Burberry shirt that he had sliced into a poncho, and an old pair of gray Miyake trousers, whose generous pleats provided both style and comfort.
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There is a selection of remarkably comely garments, including a crepe party dress with a wreath of pleats in blue or black ($415), foxy blouses with elbow-length sleeves and rose gold buttons ($295) and a dazzling garment that looks like a motorcycle jacket sewn from zinnia blossoms.
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Mr. Gentili turns out some delectable little starters (puzzlingly called "tapas" on the menu): pan-seared shrimp swaddled in bacon; milky burrata paired with warm, chunky caponata; prosciutto di Parma and fresh mozzarella drizzled with honey-truffle oil; and tiny ruffled arugula mingled with pleats of prosciutto and shavings of Parmesan.
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The chef, Hui Qiang Liu, from Guangzhou in southern China, has a steady hand with classics: translucent har gow with tidy pleats and open-mouthed siu mai in ruched collars, dense turnip cakes and slippery cheong fun, char siu bao with cracked smiles and baked pork buns as shiny as brioche.
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It was a little Vetements-meets-Pleats Please, and drop-crotch leather Bermuda shorts with a matching jacket are unlikely to take off in the boardroom (or anywhere else for that matter), but a banker's shirt over a caviar-beaded skirt traced with smoke was a step in the right direction.
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Beyond question, Jackson Heights is the first stop for anyone seeking an education in the Tibetan syllabus: momos filled with brothy beef under their bellybutton pleats; laphing, noodles neatly rolled and sliced like strudel and set loose in a puddle of chile oil; steaming, salty, bracing cups of yak butter tea.
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He wrapped car mats into pencil skirts — they had a certain cool curving rigidity that suggested (again) that sitting was a secondary consideration — and he split dresses back to front, so that what you saw from one side (swingy florals) was not what you saw from the other (shorter pleats).
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Melissa McCarthy once again displayed her love of an eye-catching ensemble in a custom made, bright, summer-y pink cocktail dress by Judy B Swartz (who also styled this look) with flattering pleats around the waist and a very on-trend bell sleeve, accessorized with a surprising pair of printed pumps from Vince Camuto.
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" Pleating is the best "case study" of handmade versus machine-made, Bolton points out, citing couture house Fortuny and Mary McFadden, "one of the first designers to create a textile that could hold its pleats permanently," made on a machine, as well as Issey Miyake, "who pleated the garment itself, instead of the textile.
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It's reminiscent of the undulant wall of the 926-square-foot vacation home that the 33-year-old architect Ramiro Meyer designed for his brother-in-law in the lakeside town of San Bernardino, which adapts Benítez's brick pleats to a gentle ripple, as if the nearby lake itself had been translated into clay.
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Some of the big installations include Michele Brody's Reflections in Tea for Julio Valdez Project Space; Will Kurtz's collection of realistic, life-sized figures constructed from newspaper, under the auspices of Garvey | Simon; and Jae Ko's "FLOW," presented by Heather Gaudio Fine Art, which features sculptures constructed from paper to produce folds, pleats, and gaps.
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And this display is followed by one of the show's best curatorial progressions, from 1950s maternity wear through the Snugli and fanny pack to a bulbous gingham ensemble from Comme des Garçon's idiosyncratic 1997 "Bump Collection, " In between, there's the prototype for Wei Hung Chen's Modular Dress 2.0, whose adjustable pleats accommodate both the expanding body during pregnancy and breast-feeding.
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Here, instead, are miles of hard clay and silty soil, funnels of rock, sandstone hillsides furrowed with pleats into melting, Gaudían formations; here, the wind and rain are so fierce that they have traced their presence onto the stones themselves, which are sometimes smooth but sometimes scarred with so many skinny runnels that they appear wrinkled, like a rhino's hide.
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Women's wear was also invited to the party: In a larger second room, models sitting on speakers or standing behind giant microphones in recording booths sported Ms. McCartney's women's pre-spring 2017 collection — all fluid, layered silhouettes, nature-inspired prints from flowers to dachshunds and dramatic ruffles and pleats as part of her first foray into the see-now, shop-now movement.
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Even the more fantastical moments in Piccioli's couture collections tend to be defined by a sort of cleanliness, and the quietest details can be the most astonishing: The fine pleats of a simple emerald chiffon skirt are lined with the tiniest of bird feathers; the white cotton shirt he holds out for me to examine is actually hand embroidered throughout in all-white stitching.
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Miuccia Prada acknowledged that reality in her Miu Miu show, a parade of sweater girls that had come undone, in fuzzy angora and curvy pencil skirts with kick pleats at the knees, sleeveless coats with mismatched rows of buttons (one, plain and neat; one, big and playful), and raw linen smocks sometimes covered in drips of paint from the little flowers that had been daubed on.
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Which may be why Victoria Beckham, also having her farewell to the New York schedule — she is decamping to London for her 10th-anniversary show in September and may or may not be back — chose to concentrate on clothes with a certain forward momentum: no-nonsense coats with a elegantly military air cinched with extra-long belts; lean khaki trousers under high-collar drop-shoulder jackets; long jersey skirts with a starburst of silk pleats at the side.
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Christopher Kane, for example, titled his 10th anniversary collection "Make Do and Mend" after the rallying cry of 1940s wartime rationing, and the imperative to create something new out of whatever was at hand: "road kill" fur pencil skirts with stretch tulle T-shirts boned like corsets; squiggle yarn dresses and prints crafted from his own runway archive; knits and chain mail strewn with sparkling geodes, and frilled stretch lace dresses and Lurex pleats spliced with sheer panels, dug up from his own past.
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As did the confusion of a collection that added many pointless flaps and straps to otherwise elegant tailoring, mixed an old newspaper comic strip ("Little Nemo in Slumberland," from 1905) with pajama suiting (for men) and Fortuny pleats (for women), threw in some gingham and potholder weaves, an old Lanvin cartoon print that apparently depicted bathers but looked like an unexpected takeoff on a Kama Sutra plate, hairy sneakers and metallic "Pharoah Loafers" (don't ask), and then culminated in lovely short Grecian gowns, glimmering with gold.
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What you make of it, the straw-and-dung-flecked scene, whether or not you scroll witchcraft into it or construe the mare as a stud or momentarily affiliate the stall boy's jacket, its pleats and ripply tucks, with high station: though these cogs in the gearing of your take tooth a definite sequence, coloring and culling a specific harvest—these tell less in the mound weight on the pan balance than how the macro already in you cups it, the man you are, the woman you are, leaning in at the stall, breathing, not breathing.
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Here, for example, "Caelum" #34 layers Greek myth, metallurgy, the 9/11 attacks, and the speaker's encounter with his employer: Through carbonized mist he brings her, Herakles after pinning death with two falls to spare, freeing Alkestis veiled in toile— rumpled deathware translucently spun to lifewear, she maintains silence: in red-flecked crystals, pyroclast throughout dust samples from Towers 1 & 93, from Building 7, microgeodes of iron beading her veil, buckshot hurled in the billions by thermite, and sidefall pleats welded much as cheddar, boiled then iced, blisters milk through furnace into evidence, reeking of sulfur its midwife, with sulfur's transform thermite, the welder's butter knife through I-beams: these the wardrobe not of rescue but reclamation, vulcanism scorching loss so as to sear denial, quick hurt then long release.
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