Released in 250, this City Sophisticate outfit had a faux-fur-trimmed coat and skirt accented by a yellow soutache braid. 21959.
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Often woven of metallic bullion thread, silk, or a blend of silk and wool, soutache began to be made of rayon and other synthetic fibers in the 20th century. Soutache is used in passementerie to add decorations to textiles. In clothing soutache is used to conceal seams or add embroidered decorations. Tracing braid is narrow soutache trim used for decorating uniforms.
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In military uniforms, edgings or loops of soutache in different widths and colors are used to indicate rank, particularly in hats. In athletic uniforms, a contrasting soutache is sometimes used to trim the placket and outline numbers or players' names. The term is also used in bookbinding, where a narrow soutache is applied at the top and bottom of a book back to reinforce the spine and provide a barrier to keep dust out of the binding. Soutache is incorporated into standalone accessories like jewelry, typically with beads.
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Senate Chamber of the Vermont State House. A beaded mask decorated with soutache. Soutache (, ), also known as Russia braid, is a narrow flat decorative braid, a type of galloon, used in the trimming of drapery or clothing. Soutache is created by weaving a decorative thread around and between two parallel cords and completely covering the cores; this produces a piece of trim with a braided or herringbone pattern.
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The original soft cover for the Heer, introduced in 1934, was a folding garrison or envelope cap in feldgrau wool, similar to that worn by American, Soviet and RAF personnel but with a "scoop" in the front; the Schiffchen ("little ship") was popular, convenient, and worn throughout the war. Variants in black wool and olive cotton were issued with the Panzer and tropical uniforms. Insignia consisted of an embroidered national emblem (Wehrmachtsadler) and red-white- black cockade, and (until 1942) an inverted chevron (soutache) in Waffenfarbe. Officers' caps (M38) were piped in silver or aluminum (gold for generals).
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Patterns are designed on a grid with a mark for the meshes to be filled with the thread. A path (or direction) is traced on this pattern and then you follow this path with the needle on the ground lace. When a group of certain stitches are used, the technique takes a name: filet Guipure, filet Richelieu, filet Soutache, linen stitch (point de toile), darning stitch (point de reprise); and then, when a region recognizes it, it may become French filet, filet di Bosa, filet Italien, filet de Gruyère, Russian filet Guipure, etc. Many designs involve weaving the main design in linen stitch, indeed some designs consist entirely of linen stitch.
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Twists or Torsade, threads made of multiple strands of metal twisted together are also sometimes used, some of which, such as Soutache, sometimes have different colored metals or colored non-metal threads twisted together. These are either couched like passing, with the couching thread visible, or with the thread angled with the twist to make it invisible. In addition, paillettes or spangles (sequins of real metal), small pieces of appliqued rich fabric or kid leather, pearls, and real or imitation gems are commonly used as accents, and felt or string padding may be used to create raised areas or texture. Silk thread work in satin stitch or other stitches is often combined with goldwork, and in some periods goldwork was combined with blackwork embroidery as well.
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