It may be ironic that the underground Costume Institute became the setting for its copes, chasubles and dalmatics—all liturgical vestments.
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He also made decisions about the use of papal vestments at Mass and other pontifical celebrations, dressing Cardinal-Deacons in dalmatics when serving pontifical celebrations.
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The apse's dimensions are 325 x 315 x 320 cm, and it contains several images although the most prominent one is a fragmentary image of the Wise and Foolish Virgins parable found in Matthew 25:1-13. Three of the five Wise Virgins' heads have been removed due to historic construction on the church building; however, all figures seem to be wearing similar embroidered dalmatics and tunics with close-fitting sleeves that are worn below the open-fitted sleeves of the dalmatics. The Virgins are crowned with bridal crowns resting on caps and are seen wearing spiral earrings. The crowns resemble those found in Rome during the sixth century.
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Other garments included the chasuble, the outermost liturgical vestment, which retained its shape, and the dalmatics, a tunic like vestment with large, bell shaped sleeves, which tended to be arched on the sides. The pastoral staff was generally found to be plain in colour and ornamentation.
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When not celebrating Mass but still serving a liturgical function, such as the semiannual Urbi et Orbi papal blessing, some Papal Masses and some events at Ecumenical Councils, cardinal deacons can be recognized by the dalmatics they would don with the simple white mitre (so called mitra simplex).
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The museum collections of early prints include the priceless manuscript of St. Augustine of Hippo from 425 titled "De civitate Dei". [Also in:] The collections of the venerated objects of piety contain monstrances and reliquaries from the workshops of Gdańsk, Toruń, and Nuremberg. The collections also include liturgical garments, such as vestments and dalmatics.
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In the Roman Empire, the dalmatic was an amply sleeved tunic (from Dalmatia) with wide stripes (clavi) that were sometimes worked with elaborate designs. Dalmatics had become typical attire for upper-class women in the latter part of the 3rd century AD. They are pictured in a few funerary portraits on shrouds from Antinoopolis in Roman Egypt.Susan Walker, Ancient Faces: Mummy Portraits in Roman Egypt (Taylor & Francis, 2000), pp. 25, 36.
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Originally, all five Wise Virgins were depicted seated at the marriage supper with burning cressets in their left hands. The Bridegroom figure (Christ) is all but gone however his hand can be seen extending over the table. On the other side of the scene are the five Foolish Virgins. The Foolish Virgins are not clothed in the intricate dalmatics as the Wise Virgins, and they do not wear crowns.
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Before the throne are placed a group of six or eight acolytes dressed in vestments, many of them wearing dalmatics; the ceroferarios who carries the ciriales or processional candlestick; and the thurifers who carries the thurible where incense is burned and it is dispersed. Throne of the Virgin of Great Power, where the canopy is visible with the bambalinas, the candelería at the front and the arbotantes on the corners.
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Matthew was a witness to charters of kings Robert II and Robert III, an occasional ambassador of the Scottish crown to England, and a frequent arbiter in disputes concerning various religious establishments. On 21 May 1401, he introduced a tax in his diocese to improve the deficient ornamenta of the diocese (i.e. chasubles, copes, dalmatics, etc.). According to the Martyrology of Glasgow, he died on 10 May 1408.
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Fletcher, p. 202. The equipment included three silver-gilt chalices; a silver-gilt pax board or osculatory, which was used for passing on the kiss of peace during Mass; two silver cruets; three brass bells, which hung in the belfry. There was a substantial collection of books: two portiphories or ledgers, large books, which were breviaries of the Sarum rite; three gilt crosses; two new missals; two new graduals, containing the sung part of the Mass; three old missals, including one covered in red leather; an old portiphory; a processional; an executor of the office, probably a book of rubrics; a collectarium; four books of the Placebo and Dirige; a psalter, Then come the vestments: a complete suit in red velvet; a red velvet cope with two dalmatics; a suit made of white silk; a white silk cope with two dalmatics; four further suits. Finally is mentioned a yearly Manual, the handbook for administering the sacraments.
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The Virgin and St Joseph are in their normal iconographic dress, and behind St Joseph a queue of respectable citizens wait their turn to register. Male hem lengths drop as the status of the person increases. All the exposed legs have hose, and the soldiers and citizens have foot-wrappings above, presumably with sandals. The citizens wear dalmatics with a wide border around the neck and hem, but not as rich as that of the middle-level official.
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Literary sources record dalmatics as imperial gifts to individuals.Walker, Ancient Faces, p. 92. It was a normal item of clothing at the time when ecclesiastical clothes began to develop separately around the fourth century, worn over a longer tunic by the upper classes, and as the longest part of the dress of men of lower rank. The dalmatic was a garment of Byzantine dress, and was adopted by Emperor Paul I of the Russian Empire as a coronation and liturgical vestment.
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The clergy of the 11th century had shaved heads and wore bonnets, which, according to Planché, were "slightly sinking in the centre, with the pendent ornaments of the mitre attached to the side of it".. Other garments included the chasuble, the outermost liturgical vestment, which retained its shape, and the dalmatics, a tunic-like vestment with large, bell- shaped sleeves, which tended to be arched on the sides. The pastoral staff was generally found to be plain in colour and ornamentation.
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Another move, the "Ornaments Rubric", related to what clergy were to wear while conducting services. Instead of the banning of all vestments except the rochet for bishops and the surplice for parish clergy, it permitted "such ornaments...as were in use...in the second year of King Edward VI". This allowed substantial leeway for more traditionalist clergy to retain the vestments which they felt were appropriate to liturgical celebration namely Mass vestments such as albs, chasubles, dalmatics, copes, stoles, maniples et cetera (at least until the Queen gave further instructions per the text the Act of Uniformity of 1559).
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Bertram received a goshawk from Hubert de Rewley, the king's fine for a market at Cattawade, by Orwell Haven.Close Rolls of the Reign of Henry III: 1242-1247, pp. 313, 493; 129, 226, 314; 496. Liveried chaplains were appointed for divine service at Dover Castle in 1246, and in 1247 three silver chalices, a censer, and quantities of orphrey, samite and other precious cloths for making chasubles and dalmatics for the Castle chapels, including the pre-conquest church of St Mary in Castro, were supplied to de Criol.Calendar of Liberate Rolls, Henry III: 1245-1251 (HMSO 1947), pp.
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Slowly the other staties were closed in favor of this one Catholic church. The various artefacts that survived from the Reformation, as well as from other defunct Haarlem catholic collections, have thus found their way into the collection and are now in the schatkamer, such as a 17th-century painting of the patron saint Bavo and silver from the chapel of Louis Napoleon, who resided for more than a decade at Villa Welgelegen. There are old chasubles, dalmatics, and surplices of the Haarlem clergy, richly embroidered, and showing popular Catholic themes. The French ones are probably also from the Louis Napoleon period, but the earliest are Flemish in origin and date back to the early 16th century.
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