What's behind a recent rage for designer ruffles, calicos, gingham and high collars?
|
|
For those buttoning up their calicos in the 21st century, rather than the 19th, they know that docile sweetness and light still has plenty of grit.
|
|
The prints are Laura Ashley-esque micro-florals, calicos and gingham, the necklines are high, sometimes there is a bib or apron, there is usually at least one ruffle.
|
|
Trussed in corsets, jawbone-high collars and calicos that had seen better days, they have little enough to work with, their attempts at coquetry further constrained by their rigid mores of the day.
|
|
It sounds like the title of a horror movie aimed at teen cat lovers, but instead of '90s starlets like Jennifer Love Hewitt and Sarah Michelle Gellar, the beauties being stalked are tabbies and calicos. IKnowWhereYourCatLives.
|
|
First their focus was on a mix of petit bourgeois odds and ends like napkins, tea towels, and scarves; but it was their antique-y microflorals, patchwork, and "shabby chic" upholstery-minded calicos, constructed into modest puffed-sleeved, long-sleeved dresses, that catapulted the fledgling label to stardom.
|
|
Calico cats can also be lighter in color—dilute calicos. Fairly common among calicos, dilutes are distinguished by having grey (known as blue), cream and gold colors instead of the traditional black, red and brown patches along with their white. Dilute calicos are also called light calicos because they have no dark colors in their coats.
|
|
" T.I. himself later jacked "44's and Calicos" and adds new verses from P$C to go along with 50 and Buck. The song was titled "44's and Calicos II". "Jack my sh--, I don't care," T.I. says during the opening notes. "If you like it, I love it.
|
|
Short-haired tortoiseshell cat Tortoiseshell is a cat coat coloring named for its similarity to tortoiseshell material. Like calicos, tortoiseshell cats are almost exclusively female.
|
|
In one study, less than a third of male calicos had a simple XXY Klinefelter's karyotype, slightly more than a third were complicated XXY mosaics, and about a third had no XXY component at all. A female domestic shorthair tortoiseshell cat. This color is known as red by breeders. Other names include yellow, ginger, and marmalade.
|
|
"Belikot", "Chalbos", "Cholbos", "Chalikus", "Coselicos", "Calicos", and then "Beit Zabdin", "Beit Zabdai", and "Beit Zabadi". These seem to be misspellings. Modern scholars have identified the first location with Chalcis in Syria (modern Qinnasrin), and the second location with Zabadea in Lebanon-Syria. In antiquity, there were many locations known as Chalcis, and two of them were located in Syria.
|
|
McCord created her quilts with left-over material that she had on hand, including pieces of her family's worn-out clothing. The fabrics she most often used were roller- printed cotton calicos, wool flannel and dress velvets. For the backing of her quilts, McCord often pieced together small scraps of muslin. McCord found inspiration for her quilt designs from the world around her.
|
|
The goods produced were chiefly cottons, calicos and silks building on the county's long weaving heritage. Other industries such as ship building, distilleries and printworks also contributed to the economy. At this time, Paisley was the largest urban and commercial centre in the county by some margin. This distinction saw the emergence of local government focused in Paisley, rather than the county town of Renfrew.
|
|
Burnley became a weaving town, producing plain calicos for printing, while but Blackburn did fancies using Jacquard looms. In the 20th century there was consolidation into larger units of production. To the north-east thousand-loom sheds were built while to the south we saw the quarter of a million spindles Edwardian ring spinning mills. Ring spinners were usually paid by the hour not the piece.
|
|
Occasionally, the tri-color calico coloration is combined with a tabby patterning; this calico-patched tabby is called a caliby.Cat Colors FAQ: Common Colors - Torties, Patched Tabbies and Calicos : “Calico” refers only to a color pattern on the fur, from colorful printed Calico fabric, not to a cat breed or any reference to any other traits, such as its eyes.Robinson, Richard. "Mosaicism". Genetics. New York: Macmillan Reference USA, 2003. 76-80.
|
|
The cotton yarn and cloth was exported from Bharoch. White calicos were manufactured in Burhanpur and Berar and exported to Persia, Turkey, Poland, Arabia and Egypt.Altekar (1934), p356 The Konkan region, ruled by the feudatory Silharas, produced large quantities of betel leaves, coconut and rice while the lush forests of Mysore, ruled by the feudatory Gangas, produced such woods as sandal, timber, teak and ebony. Incense and perfumes were exported from the ports of Thana and Saimur.
|
|
In England, before canals, and before the turnpikes, the only way to transport goods such as calicos, broadcloth or cotton-wool was by packhorse. Strings of packhorses travelled along a network of bridle paths. A merchant would be away from home most of the year, carrying his takings in cash in his saddlebag. Later a series of chapmen would work for the merchant, taking wares to wholesalers and clients in other towns, with them would go sample books.
|
|
Lola Bridgette Tash (born September 4, 1995) is a Canadian actress. She portrays Gisela Calicos on Connor Undercover. She starred as Chideh in the movie The Wild Girl, as Robin on Rookie Blue, Vicky in Reviving Ophelia and also guest starred as Vicky on The Latest Buzz, as well as many television commercials. Her roles have also included Natalia on Reign, Molly Maxwell in Molly Maxwell, Sloane Daniels on Republic of Doyle, Caitlyn in A Wife's Nightmare, and Mitzi in Four in the Morning.
|
|
A woman in Bengal region in the eastern part of the Indian subcontinent, clad in fine Bengali muslin, 18th century. Mughal India (16th to 18th centuries) was the most important center of manufacturing in international trade up until the 18th century. Up until 1750, India produced about 25% of the world's industrial output. The largest manufacturing industry in Mughal India was textile manufacturing, particularly cotton textile manufacturing, which included the production of piece goods, calicos, and muslins, available unbleached and in a variety of colours.
|
|
The 18th century saw periodic crises in the silk industry, brought on by imports of French silk – in a lull between the wars between the two rivals; and imports of printed calicos. The depression in the trade and the prices paid to weavers led to protests. In 1769, the Spitalfield riots occurred when attempts were made to disburse protest meetings by weavers during the downturn in the market for silk. The riots ended in an Irish and a Huguenot weaver being hanged in front of the Salmon and Ball public house at Bethnal Green.
|
|
Minnagar, Gujarat, Ujjain, Paithan and Tagara were important centres of textile industry. White calicos were manufactured in Burhanpur and Berar and exported to Persia, Turkey, Poland, Arabia and Cairo.Altekar (1934), p356 Jawarit Bajri was grown in some regions of modern Maharashtra and oil seeds in dry areas of northern Karnataka region. The Konkan region, ruled by the feudatory Silharas, produced large quantities of betel leaves, coconut and rice while the lush forests of Mysore, ruled by the feudtory Gangas, produced such woods as sandal, timber, teak and ebony.
|
|
Nablus costume was of a distinctive style that employed colorful combinations of various fabrics. Due to its position as important trade center with a flourishing souk ("market"), in late 19th century, there was a large choice of fabrics available in the city, from Damascus and Aleppo silk to Manchester cottons and calicos. Similar in construction to the garments worn in the Galilee, both long and short Turkish style jackets were worn over the thob ("robe"). For daily wear, thobs were often made of white cotton or linen, with a preference for winged sleeves.
|
|
Calico Ghost Town, in Yermo, is administered by San Bernardino County. The ghost town has several shops and attractions, and inspired Walter Knott to build Knott's Berry Farm. The BLM also administers Rainbow Basin and Owl Canyon, two "off-the-beaten-path" scenic attractions together north of Barstow in the Calicos. The Calico Early Man Site, in the Calico Hills east of Yermo, is believed by some archaeologists, including the late Louis Leakey, to show the earliest evidence with lithic stone tools found here of human activity in North America.
|
|
During the early 16th century to the early 18th century, Indian cotton production increased, in terms of both raw cotton and cotton textiles. The Mughals introduced agrarian reforms such as a new revenue system that was biased in favour of higher value cash crops such as cotton and indigo, providing state incentives to grow cash crops, in addition to rising market demand.John F. Richards (1995), The Mughal Empire, page 190, Cambridge University Press The largest manufacturing industry in the Mughal Empire was cotton textile manufacturing, which included the production of piece goods, calicos, and muslins, available unbleached and in a variety of colours.
|
|
In 1841, Kenworthy and Bullough produced the Lancashire Loom which was self-acting or semi-automatic. This enables a youngster to run six looms at the same time. Thus, for simple calicos, the power loom became more economical to run than the hand loom – with complex patterning that used a dobby or Jacquard head, jobs were still put out to handloom weavers until the 1870s. Incremental changes were made such as the Dickinson Loom, culminating in the Keighley-born inventor Northrop, who was working for the Draper Corporation in Hopedale producing the fully automatic Northrop Loom.
|
|
Upon returning to New York City in 1823, Stewart married Cornelia on October 16. Before marrying, Stewart opened his first store, located at 283 Broadway, which sold Irish fabrics and domestic calicos purchased with funds from his inheritance and earnings as a tutor. A. T. Stewart & Co. logo ca. 1872 The store opened on September 1, 1823, just across from City Hall Park, north of Chambers Street on the opposite side of Broadway from where his later Marble Palace was to stand. Rented for $375 a year, it measured 12.5 feet wide by 30 feet deep, rather small by today's standards but average during the 19th century.
|
|
A woman in Dhaka clad in fine Bengali muslin, 18th century. Under the Mughal Empire, which ruled in the Indian subcontinent from the early 16th century to the early 18th century, Indian cotton production increased, in terms of both raw cotton and cotton textiles. The Mughals introduced agrarian reforms such as a new revenue system that was biased in favour of higher value cash crops such as cotton and indigo, providing state incentives to grow cash crops, in addition to rising market demand.John F. Richards (1995), The Mughal Empire, page 190 , Cambridge University Press The largest manufacturing industry in the Mughal Empire was cotton textile manufacturing, which included the production of piece goods, calicos, and muslins, available unbleached and in a variety of colours.
|
|
Mughal princes wearing muslin robes in 1665 CE. The largest manufacturing industry in the Mughal Empire was textile manufacturing, particularly cotton textile manufacturing, which included the production of piece goods, calicos, and muslins, available unbleached and in a variety of colours. The cotton textile industry was responsible for a large part of the empire's international trade. India had a 25% share of the global textile trade in the early 18th century.Angus Maddison (1995), Monitoring the World Economy, 1820–1992, OECD, p. 30 Indian cotton textiles were the most important manufactured goods in world trade in the 18th century, consumed across the world from the Americas to Japan. By the early 18th century, Mughal Indian textiles were clothing people across the Indian subcontinent, Southeast Asia, Europe, the Americas, Africa, and the Middle East.
|
|
Among the breeds whose formal standards allow calico coloration are the Manx cat, American Shorthair, Maine Coon, British Shorthair, Persian cat, Arabian Mau, Japanese Bobtail, Exotic Shorthair, Siberian, Turkish Van, Turkish Angora and Norwegian Forest cat. Because genetic determination of coat colors in calico cats is linked to the X chromosome, calicos are nearly always female, with one color linked to the maternal X chromosome and a second color linked to the paternal X chromosome. In most cases, males are only one color (for instance, black) as they have only one X chromosome. Male calicoes can happen when a male cat has two X chromosomes (Klinefelter syndrome, with XXY sex chromosomes and generally sterile), is a chimera with two different cell types, or rarely when some skin cells of the developing kitten spontaneously mutate.
|
|
In the mid-20th century, the Yermo chamber of commerce styled the town the "Gateway to the Calicos", referring to the Calico Mountains and the historic Calico Ghost Town located 3 miles north of town. At the time, Yermo and Barstow were campaigning to establish a state park at Calico, Excerpted from the Barstow Printer-Review which was an active silver mining town from the early 1880s until the turn of the 20th century. In 1952, entrepreneur Walter Knott, whose uncle John King was once Calico's sheriff, and who worked at the town as a carpenter in 1915,Steeples, Douglas W., "Treasure from the Painted Desert: A History of Calico, California, 1882-1907", 1999 purchased Calico and restored it. He later deeded it to the San Bernardino County, which operates the site as a historical county park and a popular tourist attraction of the U.S. Southwest.
|
|
The most important center of cotton production was the Bengal Subah province, particularly around its capital city of Dhaka.Richard Maxwell Eaton (1996), The Rise of Islam and the Bengal Frontier, 1204-1760, page 202, University of California Press Bengal accounted for more than 50% of textiles and around 80% of silks imported by the Dutch from Asia, Bengali silk and cotton textiles were exported in large quantities to Europe, Indonesia, and Japan,John F. Richards (1995), The Mughal Empire, page 202, Cambridge University Press and Bengali muslin textiles from Dhaka were sold in Central Asia, where they were known as "daka" textiles. Indian textiles dominated the Indian Ocean trade for centuries, were sold in the Atlantic Ocean trade, and had a 38% share of the West African trade in the early 18th century, while Indian calicos were major force in Europe, and Indian textiles accounted for 20% of total English trade with Southern Europe in the early 18th century. In early modern Europe, there was significant demand for textiles from Mughal India, including cotton textiles and silk products.
|
|
202, University of California Press Bengal accounted for more than 50% of textiles and around 80% of silks imported by the Dutch from Asia, Bengali silk and cotton textiles were exported in large quantities to Europe, Indonesia, and Japan, and Bengali muslin textiles from Dhaka were sold in Central Asia, where they were known as "daka" textiles. Indian textiles dominated the Indian Ocean trade for centuries, were sold in the Atlantic Ocean trade, and had a 38% share of the West African trade in the early 18th century, while Indian calicos were a major force in Europe, and Indian textiles accounted for 20% of total English trade with Southern Europe in the early 18th century. The worm gear roller cotton gin, which was invented in India during the early Delhi Sultanate era of the 13th–14th centuries, came into use in the Mughal Empire sometime around the 16th century, and is still used in India through to the present day. Another innovation, the incorporation of the crank handle in the cotton gin, first appeared in India sometime during the late Delhi Sultanate or the early Mughal Empire.
|
|