Among the offerings were "culinary ateliers" that served Malian food.
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The new restaurant, like many other Ateliers, also has tables.
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Environ 150 ateliers pour les jeunes ont été tenus cette année.
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Just a handful of Europe's rattan ateliers are still in operation.
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Across the alley, a nondescript building houses a handful of specialists' ateliers.
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The embellishments of rock crystal were hand-embroidered by François Lesage's ateliers.
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The couture ateliers "find me really informal," she said with a laugh.
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I am doing it alone, out of my house, with external collaborators and ateliers.
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His designers and assistants migrated across the courtyard to other sample rooms and ateliers.
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Natacha was trained in the couture ateliers, and she perfectly embodies the spirit of Chloé.
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And inventively clad millennials, more than a few affiliated with the designer ateliers headquartered here.
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They originated from the renowned stained glass workshop Ateliers Loire in Chartres, France, at Miró's request.
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Le budget gouvernemental consacré aux ateliers traitant des écueils de l'internet est en augmentation depuis 2015.
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But inside, there's a leafy courtyard ringed by ateliers, one of which is blazing with light.
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One of the most inspiring mornings was spent touring the incredible Luma Arles Parc des Ateliers complex.
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A select customer base really suits Glenn Spiro, the independent jeweler, with ateliers in London and Geneva.
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Although the building remains the same, the ateliers closed in October of 2002, when Saint Laurent retired.
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I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.
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They're in the ateliers; they're in the offices; they're on the board of directors; they're in the stores.
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The new Atelier's counter has 34 seats and a curved contour, unlike the rectilinear design of most Ateliers.
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Then there are the charming port towns complete with traditional wooden smokehouses, ceramics ateliers and ice cream parlors.
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Both wedding gowns, handmade in MGM's studio ateliers, were a wedding gift to the star from her studio bosses.
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Jain lived in one, and at the far end of this magical street were the ateliers of Studio Mumbai.
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He won a prize for drawing at the age of ten, and was educated in art academies and ateliers.
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In Paris, she studied cooking at Le Cordon Bleu and painting in the ateliers of André Lhote and Fernand Léger.
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The Dubai Design District (or D3), for example, is a development of ateliers, offices, and showrooms that opened in 2015.
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Surely they envied the couturiers of the previous century, enthroned in their ateliers, worrying only about, say, draping and embroidery?
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"I am especially grateful to the ateliers and the teams who participated in this adventure," he said in a statement.
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Before taking the reins at Ateliers Nectoux, the world's ultimate resource for tin countertops, Thierry Nectoux was a land surveyor.
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We ended up doing a little road trip to the South, stopping at all the Impressionists' ateliers along the way.
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Wrap up your Saturday night in Psyrri, a former industrial district where hardware stores and design ateliers now coexist harmoniously.
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A decade later, he returned to its sprawling ateliers in Palaiseau, outside Paris, for a jewelry collection for Christian Lacroix.
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Haute couture garments and the offices of seven conservation specialists are housed in the space formerly occupied by the ateliers.
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At one of Chanel's haute couture ateliers in Paris, a seamstress sews a temporary trim motif for the client's second fitting.
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Zaventem Ateliers, as the 22013,236-square-foot complex is known, was opened last year by the Belgian interior designer Lionel Jadot.
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And in the second stage of his career, he planted Ateliers around Asia, Europe and North America, accumulating 31 Michelin stars.
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The skilled hands of Parisiennes in couture ateliers painted the baroque motifs in gold and embroidered them with pearls and other gems.
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Speaking on the phone, she reiterated her excitement at the opportunity of working with Lanvin's ateliers, and her admiration for Mr. Elbaz.
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Three of the last ateliers left — in Sweden, England and Italy — are by all accounts creating the most beautiful wicker furniture today.
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The workmanship of couture encompasses the high jewelry houses, which have their own ateliers and trends, and whose presentations peppered the week.
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The resulting saga is divided into three plays, presented in different parts of the Ateliers Berthier, the Théâtre de l'Odéon's second venue.
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The artists started to arrive as early as the 225s, attracted to the prospect of stand-alone ateliers whose squalor guaranteed bargain rents.
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In some ways, the same question hovers over "Cataract Valley," staged at the Ateliers Berthier, the second venue of the Théâtre de l'Odéon.
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In a streetwear-mad moment, Mr. Jones, the man who brought the street into the ateliers of Louis Vuitton, is going another way.
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In 2017, Kwade bought her first warehouse space from Adams, and then gradually acquired and connected the neighboring ateliers as her studio grew.
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His thoughts had been corralled as well, made more linear and focused, specifically on the history of Louis Vuitton and its crafts ateliers.
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And for industry obsessives, his name belongs alongside other ateliers like Alexander McQueen and Gaultier who operate on a similar dark-fantasy frequency.
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In April 2018, Hilton told PEOPLE she found her wedding gownafter scouring all the ateliers with sister Nicky Hilton during New York Fashion Week.
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The designers had collaborated with ateliers across Paris, as they told us in June, overlaying old world craftsmanship with their classic New York silhouettes.
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Kennedy cites as inspiration the ateliers of Coco Chanel and the great Irish designer Eileen Gray — women who invited clients directly into their workspaces.
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Ateliers, with extra-wide windows to let in the light so workers could see the tiny pieces they assembled, were tucked behind the homes.
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It has since been rechristened Kate's Lace, and photos of Ms. Middleton in the gown are proudly displayed throughout the company's offices and ateliers.
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She spent time with suppliers and the heads of seven ateliers and assessed what new or archival techniques best corresponded to Mr. Lagerfeld's ideas.
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From their studios, ateliers, film sets and kitchens — and even the White House — these are the people whose inventive spirits shaped the conversation this year.
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As a preproduction exercise, touring boardrooms wasn't the sort of extravagantly crafty immersion program that prompts other actors to frequent bootmakers' ateliers and mental hospitals.
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On March 17, the jeweler officially opened one of the largest jewelry ateliers in Europe, more than 150,000 square feet, in Valenza, north of Milan.
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He hated holidays, when his ateliers were closed, and would take advantage of the fact that Lachaume stayed open, sending messages or coming in to chat.
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Yellapah did not train in Mughal ateliers but had an equally brilliant style and an astute sensitivity to the changing cultural focus of his European patrons.
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The entrepreneur heiress scoured all the ateliers with sister Nicky Hilton during New York Fashion Week, but told PEOPLE at Beautycon Saturday she finally found the one.
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Mr Lagerfeld was behind Chanel's recent acquisition of ateliers with such specialities as embroidery, feathers and flower makings in order to ensure the survival of their expertise.
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In 2002 a number of Yves Saint Laurent's former couture staff joined Alaïa after Mr. Saint Laurent's retirement, including the heads of the tailoring and dressmaking ateliers.
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Vacheron Constantin has said that, unlike previous models from its Ateliers Cabinotiers division, Celestia is not a commission, but was made to showcase the brand's watchmaking capabilities.
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On the sixth floor, in one of the two flou ateliers, the head of the workroom Florence Chehet oversaw the fitting of a lacy black evening dress.
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Currently, the company works with over 200 prisoners and ex-prisoners, who have then gone on to train other female artisans, or have opened up their own ateliers.
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Back in 2014, along with fellow ENSCI Les Ateliers-graduate Piotr Widelka, they created Tatoué, a Makerbot 3D printer with a tattoo gun instead of a plastic extruder.
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"In the studio: The Artist Photographed from Ingres to Jeff Koons", an exhibition at Le Petit Palais in Paris, pulls back the curtain and peeks at artists' ateliers.
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One is an industrial tower in Lichtenberg, in which he and his partners will build small ateliers for themselves; the other is an old customs building in Sicily.
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Known as klek, or squat shops, these knee-high ateliers and stores are nestled in former storage cellars and bomb shelters, and they're only found in Bulgaria's capital.
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Sculptural Furniture at Les Ateliers Courbet The first New York exhibition of the Italian designer Mauro Mori includes hand-carved pieces in Seychelles wood, Carrara marble and metals.
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Ms. Chiuri said she brought only two designers with her from Valentino, and she inherited staffs, studios and ateliers she is still adjusting to, and they to her.
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In Mumbai, scores of ateliers and export houses act as middlemen between the brands and highly skilled artisans, while also providing services like design, sampling and garment production.
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But maker spaces and designer ateliers (I believe that's the term) will be more likely to if it's this easy to create new and perfectly sized garments with them.
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The 82-year-old designer dedicated the fashion show to the label's normally unheralded "petites mains" (small hands), even posing with the heads of the ateliers at the end.
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Throughout the country, 8,500 events are scheduled, including visits to 2000,000 ateliers usually closed to the public, with some programs planned to attract young artisans and artists-to-be.
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Many Syrians, often children, ended up in one of Istanbul's thousands of basement textile ateliers, sewing buttons and gluing shoes, working 12 hours a day, sometimes without being paid.
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Bows are a signature detail of Dior's couture, created for the neckline, hip or toe of a shoe by the petites mains, or tiny hands, of the couture ateliers.
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This branch of bespoke modernism played out in ateliers rather than in factories: Artists produced limited art editions rather than toasters and coffee pots stamped out by the thousands.
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What's interesting is that they are buying these clothes in such quantities that a brand like Valentino, which is owned by the Qataris, has doubled its number of couture ateliers.
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Nowhere, of course, is the dream life of clothes more exalted: Everything is made to order by hand in one of Valentino's three couture ateliers on the palazzo's second floor.
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Launched by Lagerfeld in 2002, the Métiers d'Art presentation showcases the craftsmanship of the brand's various specialty ateliers, each devoted to a specific trade, such as leather, embroidery and lace.
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Occupying just 25 square meters, or 2500 square feet, the showroom has a tiny work area tucked at the rear, so it could well be among the world's smallest ateliers.
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It is the centerpiece of Luma Arles, a $210 million arts complex built on a 2500-acre plot of parched earth and defunct rail yard, known as the Parc des Ateliers.
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PARIS — At 3, rue de Marignan in the Eighth Arrondissement, just steps from the Champs-Élysées, a receptionist waits to admit you into the men's wear studio and ateliers of Dior.
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PARIS — Tucked away in a cobblestoned courtyard popping with greenery and artisan ateliers, the Maison Tamboite is creating its own (peaceful) cycling revolution just steps from the Place de la Bastille.
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It marked the first time that Givenchy, which is one of the 15 official members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, would open its specialized ateliers to men's wear.
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"During fashion week my sister and I went to look at ateliers just to see everything," she told PEOPLE at the Colleagues Annual Spring Luncheon at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel on Tuesday.
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These moments not only put the spotlight on the incredible work of the ateliers and petits-mains actually creating the garments, but they also made for some seriously impressive best-dressed moments.
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His search started with an advertisement in the local newspaper and with 17 responses, Karl made his pick after visiting all the watchmakers' ateliers and finding the perfect purchase in LU Chopard.
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But amidst this discussion of parity in all areas of the industry, there is a less-asked question that takes the conversation off the catwalk and into the design studios and ateliers.
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Long case clocks with a distinctive hourglass shape, called Comtoise clocks, have long been made in ateliers in the outskirts of the city and in the villages of the surrounding Jura mountains.
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If the interior suggests other Ateliers, so does much of the menu, with small plates like steak tartare, carpaccio of artichokes with foie gras, and caviar with shellfish gelée and cauliflower cream.
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There he would regale guests — who could include designers, Kardashians, the artist Julian Schnabel, the architect Peter Marino and seamstresses from his ateliers — long into the night with opinions, stories and exhortations.
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The oldest, largest and last of France's great metalworking ateliers, Arthus-Bertrand turns out pieces for many of the world's fashion, jewelry and luxury powerhouses and works for independent jewelry designers, too.
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As in Chanel's relationship with Parisian heritage ateliers like the embroiderer Lesage and the hat maker Maison Michel, Mr. Gauthier remains totally independent and can even work for Chanel's competitors, Mr. Beau said.
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"There are hundreds of [these ateliers] that are just independent, so I think they're very open to new clients and new people, and so we're working with a bunch of them," Hernandez explained.
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Its former director, François Hebel, objected to the local government's willingness to give Ms. Hoffmann control over the Parc des Ateliers, without mediating other public considerations, and he resigned in protest in 2014.
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A golden sunburst, tall as the building, adorns a former hôtel particulier in Place Vendôme, the 18th-century plaza where the highest-end couture ateliers and jewelry workshops have long made their home.
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Like her colleagues in the other ateliers, she keeps meticulous archives; among her tools are thousands of hand-bound volumes of past designs, which she studies to avoid repetition and to spark ideas.
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Advertise on Hyperallergic with Nectar Ads Rare, previously unpublished photographs of Pablo Picasso in his studio are now on view in Paris, offering intimate views of the artist in several of his French ateliers.
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And recently clients from my Nina and Oscar days have started reaching out, so I have been doing some commissioned work using small ateliers in Paris that can take a single project quite easily.
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The Métiers d'Art, an annual presentation since 2002 of the intricate craftsmanship of the Chanel-owned specialist ateliers central to Mr. Lagerfeld's designs, had previously been held in Dallas; Salzburg, Austria; Rome; and Paris.
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He points to expatriate jewelers before him — Verdura from Italy and Schlumberger from France among them — who came to America and established ateliers with a European sensibility blended with a strong sense of design.
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The ateliers sit in the eaves of the headquarters, divided into workrooms devoted to tailoring and flou — the expressive French term for all that is fluid and light, including everything from blouses to ballgowns.
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Episode two then captures the action in the Dior ateliers as the newly-appointed Maria Grazia Chiuri (the house's first female designer) prepares her first collection, just weeks before presenting it on the world stage.
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But when a position becomes available at these big, grand, Parisian ateliers, not often are these names thrown around (or not anywhere near as much as their male contemporaries, like Riccardo Tisci or Raf Simons).
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Often, late at night during the collections, after whatever guests had come for dinner had left, I would see the light on in his ateliers across the courtyard when I was up writing a review.
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In "Ithaque (Notre Odyssée 1)," Ms. Jatahy, a Brazilian-born director who is an associate artist at the Odéon theater here, exploits the possibilities of the playhouse's second stage, the Ateliers Berthier, to the full.
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Maximiliano Modesti, the founder of Les Ateliers 2500M, a Mumbai embroidery firm that works with Chanel, Hermès and Isabel Marant, said he was approached about joining Utthan in 270, when the project was being developed.
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"Increasingly, embroidery is being done in India, instead of in the Parisian ateliers," Bolton notes of an aspect of the design process still being done sans machines, but often in a different part of the world.
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Anabela Chan at Les Ateliers Courbet The London-based jewelry designer Anabela Chan will present her nature-inspired creations, including sculptures made from butterfly wings, painted crystal candy dishes for Lobmeyr and fabrics for Bernhardt Textiles.
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But it is the product of a dialogue between designer and client, of the time and resources spent by the craftspeople at each of the different specialized ateliers to make the garment as precisely as possible.
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I went to more than a dozen boutiques, department stores, bridal salons, ateliers, even second-hand bridal spots, and each one left me feeling a combination of bored, underwhelmed, exhausted and a bit helpless in my search.
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But last night, Vetements mixed the two worlds — that is, Paris ateliers and the Paramus shopping mall — in a show bursting with creative energy and innovation, the brand's ever-present irony, and a raging thrash-metal soundtrack.
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A sister brand to H&M, & Other Stories is full of affordable and trendy cool-girl styles with tons of gorgeous pieces – including clothing, shoes, accessories and beauty products – from ateliers in Paris, Los Angeles and Stockholm.
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And though Ms. Chiuri has experience working with couture and ready-to-wear ateliers, as well as overseeing some of the most successful bags and shoes of recent seasons, she has never led a house by herself.
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This uncreatively named, but charming, and ever more hip area has ateliers, cafes and bars with live music along its main — and essentially only — drag, Rua Direita de Santo Antônio (Straight Street of Santo Antônio, no joke).
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Indeed, for many it is the only time some of the most exaggerated catwalk looks, the kind where designers just let their imaginations and their ateliers run wild, will ever appear in any context beyond a show.
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It was, in the end, the classic pieces that showcased the art of the ateliers that made the biggest statement: a beautiful sheer cape embroidered with sequined gold wheat sheaves, for example, or feather covered cocktail dresses.
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PARIS (Reuters) - Christian Dior paid tribute to the skills of its ateliers at its Haute Couture runway show on Monday, as models in pale, minimalistic gowns glided through an all-white showroom-turned-catwalk lined with mannequins.
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PARIS (Reuters) - Chanel took fashionistas behind the scenes into its ateliers for its autumn/winter haute couture show on Tuesday, focusing on the intricate craftsmanship displayed on its luxurious outfits and shining the spotlight on its artisan workers.
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So she and Singer paired five emerging Norwegian studios with five enterprising American ateliers, who became Skype-pals and ultimately created Norway x New York, a series of collaborative objects, lighting and furniture, specifically for this year's Offsite.
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And as in the couture house ateliers, seamstresses cut and sew stiff linen mock-ups, called toiles, to perfect the design before cutting it in the final fabric, and produce embellishments, like handmade silk blossoms and gold braiding.
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Yet when I would work with ateliers in the factories, especially during my years at Gucci, quite often they were headed up by women and you were in a place of discussing and trying to work problems out.
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French label Givenchy, another brand which like Dior is owned by LVMH, also celebrated its ateliers at its show on Sunday, as designer Clare Waight Keller appeared at the end of the presentation alongside the team of couturiers.
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With no "Monsieur" or "Madame," the modern company hews instead to the contours of the guilds: There are separate ateliers (and corresponding heads) for women's ready-to-wear, perfume, shoes and jewelry, men's wear, silk and home furnishings.
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Recent significant staff losses include a design team reduced to three people from 11; the director of ready-to-wear fired; the head of accessories leaving for Marc Jacobs; and the head of ateliers resigning after several years service.
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The ateliers can be a bit noisy from time to time, mostly when the students are using its large pieces of machinery, like a Haas OM2A milling unit and a Schaublin lathe, that are lined up against the walls.
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"Because the Golden Globes takes place long after Fashion Month in September is over, the clothes have all been worn, the last couture show was in the summer, and during the holidays all of the European ateliers are closed," Young explains.
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The partnership will offer the nine-member company a continuing residency and performance space in the foundation's Parc des Ateliers, a former rail yard of about 25 acres that contains several 19th-century industrial buildings, currently being restored by Selldorf Architects.
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Mr. Gaultier created the hundreds of outfits for "The One" over a 10-month period together with the Friedrichstadt-Palast costume department, which employs about 55 tailors, shoemakers, milliners, makeup artists and assistants, as well as about 20 external ateliers.
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The emojified Chanel iconography stood out among all the other tailored-to-a-tee looks that made up his #frontrowonly show, meant to be a throwback to the days when fashion shows were held in private ateliers just for clients.
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The four main haute couture ateliers in its Rue Cambon headquarters are separated into those that make suits and those called flou, which create evening wear, including this elaborately beaded and sequined custom-made confection from the fall 2018 collection.
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In 1985, Desrues became the first of Chanel's "satellite" ateliers, as Karl Lagerfeld describes them — the more than two dozen businesses that specialize in various métiers d'art, everything from lacemaking to jewelry design, and belong to the fashion giant's Paraffection subsidiary.
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" Mr. Arnault said he knows visitors are excited to visit the ateliers, but the event really is for the artisans: "They're there all year long making these beautiful products a little bit in the shadows, and you feel their pride.
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LONDON — Talks between the luxury house Louis Vuitton and workers at its ateliers across France were extended on Thursday, a day after scores of the company's employees staged a walkout for the first time in 15 years to demand wage increases.
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Maximiliano Modesti, fundador de Les Ateliers 2M, una compañía de bordado en Mumbai que trabaja con Chanel, Hermès e Isabel Marant, dijo que recibió la invitación de participar en el pacto de Utthan en 2014, cuando el proyecto estaba en desarrollo.
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The rebooted restaurant, the 12th in a string of Ateliers across the globe, is on the edge of the meatpacking district, on 10th Avenue at 15th Street, a reflection of the shift that has moved the epicenter of Manhattan's new-restaurant scene downtown.
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Global Shopping BUENOS AIRES — Independent designers in Buenos Aires are defying Argentina's notoriously unstable economy, high rents and rising inflation by opening tiny boutiques and ateliers and turning to homegrown materials to produce a creative range of leather goods, housewares and jewelry.
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Mr. Robuchon, best known in recent years for the chain of small restaurants he called ateliers, dazzled the French culinary world with his first Paris restaurant, Jamin, which earned three Michelin stars in record speed, a mere three years after opening in 1981.
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The lifeline of the area, she said, is warehouselike studios, ateliers and workshops where artists and designers can make things and be messy and noisy — "the kind of spaces," she added, "that will both be used by the car mechanic and the artist."
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In my almost two decades of covering fashion, from ateliers to executive suites and inaugurations, it's become very clear to me that whether we like to admit it or not, we all use our wardrobes to manipulate other people — and get manipulated ourselves.
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Last season, the brand focused on working with individual garment manufacturers — Champion for sweatshirts, Levi's for denim or Hanes for T-shirts — comparing them to the specialist ateliers whose expertise has supplied couture houses with embroideries, pleating and handmade buttons for centuries.
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As for the show itself, guests were sent invitations featuring one of Lagerfeld's traditional hand drawn illustrations, in this case the image of a Chanel-branded dress form emblazoned with "Les Ateliers de la Haute Couture," foreshadowing the intimate backdrop for the collection's presentation.
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If you went at this in the spirit of the chefs who have labs/test kitchens/ateliers with interesting appliances and chemicals, I think you could add lecithin or other mail-ordered emulsifiers to ''correct'' that effect in the milk before you coagulate the tofu.
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Paris In a delightful break from tradition, this season Giambattista Valli decided to showcase the work of his ateliers not with a runway show but with an exhibition at the Jeu de Paume in the Jardin des Tuileries that will be open to the public.
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On the Runway 13 Photos View Slide Show ' PARIS — For 14 years, the designer Karl Lagerfeld made the world his stage when it came to opulent showcases to unveil his Métiers d'Art collections for Chanel, dedicated to celebrating the handwork of Chanel-owned specialty ateliers.
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The high jewelry business — one-of-a-kind pieces priced from $22018,27 to several million dollars and often handcrafted in Vendôme ateliers to showcase precious stones and advanced artisanal techniques — has been turned on its head by a generational shift in its traditional clientele.
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For luxury businesses — where profits are often sky-high and the bespoke craftsmanship at its ateliers is front and center in marketing messages — a nasty shadow could be cast over those seen to be exploiting workers who cater to the whims of the elite.
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When I noticed that the individual works are labeled with each artist's name and a short bio, but not otherwise dated or titled, Duval-Carrié described the process of visiting the artists' improvised, crowded ateliers in Port-au-Prince to choose works for the exhibition.
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Though this might seem irrelevant to those with their eyes trained on the couture ateliers in France, what elite athletes wear on the court has a trickle-down effect on that increasingly important clothing genre known as "athleisure," which has an impact on what everyone wears.
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Fashion is an industry whose roots are embedded in Continental soil, and the other fashion capitals (and those who were trained there) occupy an outsize space in the designer imagination, British and otherwise — and a physical space in many of their ateliers — that cannot be underestimated.
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While busy Revolucni street houses shops like Naoko (Revolucni 24), a source for quirky housewares, Petrska's magic thrives on its narrow lanes at places like Showroom (Klimentska 3), a site for a coterie of indie designers, several of whom have ateliers in the back of the shop.
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A while too, since he balanced all that rebellion with cutting skills — learned in the ateliers of Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou — so perfectly judged they made a neophyte to fashion sit up in sudden understanding: Oh, that's why this costs so much, and is worth it.
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Now in its 18th year, the Métiers d'Art is an annual presentation by Chanel of the intricate craftsmanship of the specialist ateliers the company has bought over the years to preserve and nurture for their know-how; from embroiderers and feather makers to pleaters and milliners.
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I've spent a lot of time over the last few years in various ateliers watching designers in their offices, poking through their drawers and work habits, asking whether they will draw only with certain pens, have favorite types of paper or engage in strange precollection superstitions.
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Trained in a yearlong in-house academy, followed by one to two years under the watchful eye of a tutor, they labor in buildings throughout Paris's Eighth Arrondissement and in a vast 27-year-old complex in a suburb called Pantin and small satellite ateliers throughout northeastern France.
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Displayed alongside the plaster casts — made with animal bones from livestock descended from farms historically owned by Armenians — are rubbings made from the facades of these buildings, as well as photographs, and histories of the craftsmen and their ateliers, giving names to the forgotten and unrecognized ghosts of Ottoman Istanbul.
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The in-house designers included the painter Wyndham Lewis, who later split off to start the aggressively abstract Vorticist movement, and the flamboyant Welsh artist and writer Nina Hamnett, but most of the objects themselves were fabricated to specifications by traditional artisans in small ateliers throughout London and the French countryside.
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New bridal boutiques and ateliers in Brooklyn, specifically Gowanus, Greenpoint, Boerum Hill and Bedford-Stuyvesant, sell wedding dresses and accessories by young women designers who understand the needs of a bride seeking elegant, contemporary design with handmade embellishments, and, often a one-of-a-kind dress made just for her.
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And that is a problem not just for the brands and people involved — not just for the designers, executives and, perhaps more important, all the relatively unsung men and women who work in the ateliers and on the design teams — but also for the clothes we are all supposed to wear.
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He spent what seemed like let-them-eat-cake amounts of Chanel's money on his sets during the global recession (though he also helped preserve and show off the work of the specialty ateliers — like the feather and embroidery houses — which easily could have been lost to history and industrialization).
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Karl Lagerfeld had recreated his ateliers, down to the rolls of fabric, dressmakers' dummies, patterns and pins, the better to demonstrate the reality — and human toil — behind the reconfigured tweed suiting (actually trompe l'oeil embroidery), shoulders extended and flattened into two dimensions without internal structure, and culottes swishing about midcalf, on his runway.
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It is not only one of the world's last couture ateliers, but in its 22017 annual collections — spanning men's wear, women's wear and couture — it must translate the ethos and aesthetics of a brand associated with a lost era of Italian glamour to a fast-moving fashion world governed by an attention economy.
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Each time, they would swirl past the towers and rose windows of the cathedral on the Île de la Cité, the nexus of a diagonal from the Sixth Arrondissement headquarters of Sonia Rykiel to the Fourth Arrondissement home of Azzedine Alaïa, all around it other showrooms and ateliers like pearls on a string.
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By the 1970s, Vicenza was thriving amid a boom in European and American jewelry sales; the numbers of artisan ateliers surged, while factories turned out large quantities of jewelry and particularly of chains — thanks to machines invented locally, said Cristina del Mare, a jewelry historian and one of the Museo del Gioiello's curators.
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It will be perfect and will cost more than virtually any other such item you can buy off a shelf (the company also keeps several ateliers just for custom orders, another magnitude of extravagance), though ever so slightly different from all the others because of the particular hand used to create it.
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It is firstly, a distinctly unusual appointment not least because she is a woman — the lack of female creative directors at fashion houses is remarkable, but the number gets even slimmer when looking at French ateliers — and is certainly a nod to its founder, Jeanne Lanvin, who launched the brand more than a century ago.
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Also, designers say, that while many wouldn't want a piece that had been on the red carpet or worn by an influencer, they are still highly attuned to and influenced by social media platforms like Instagram — so many ateliers are increasingly focusing on designs that photograph well and are clearly visible on small mobile devices.
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The idea came to him after the Les Ateliers Courbet founder Melanie Courbet brought a rotating tray to one of Thompson's so-called "food salons"; they partnered on a set of handcrafted round, black-and-white inlaid Corian meant to resemble the strobe disks employed by D.J.s to ensure a perfect 33 and 1/3 r.p.m.
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To celebrate her first role in the new Star Wars franchise (she's the first black actress to play a starring role in the franchise, although Lupita Nyong'o has role in the previous two sequels), Newton, 45, worked with ateliers at Vivienne Westwood to create a custom Star Wars-themed gown featuring figurines from her personal collection.
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A selection of Ms. Chan's creations will be on view at Les Ateliers Courbet from May 16 to June 30, including her new collection of candy dishes produced with the Austrian crystal company Lobmeyr, featuring painted details of Ms. Chan's hummingbirds and butterflies (from $1,200) and her fabric collection for Bernhardt Textiles (from $40 a yard).
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The artist Julian Schnabel helped with the decoration — which includes two of his signature smashed-plate portraits, of Alaïa and his much-loved model Stephanie Seymour — and the building contains not only his ateliers and a boutique, but also his own apartment, and a small hotel of three chic apartments that Alaïa only rents to friends.
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For nearly a year, he and his team searched the globe for the best artisans working with fabric, from manjak weavers in southern Senegal to ribbon embroiderers in New Delhi, eventually partnering with over 500 ateliers to create 50 made-to-order tapestries (plus 12 matching tote bags), which will debut at Salone del Mobile in Milan next month.
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Conglomerates such as LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton adopted an approach of semi-radical transparency, and instead of cloaking themselves in their former air of mystery, which turned out to be creating distance instead of intrigue, invited potential consumers into the ateliers to see their artisans in the process of making their products, humanizing themselves along the way.
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"The idea that we can author our own visual destinies, make up our own rules, turn our backs — literally — on physical limitations, is no doubt the reason that Kahlo's unflinching gaze continues to stare out from what seems like a million mood boards in a million ateliers," Lynn Yaeger, a Vogue contributor and an idiosyncratic style setter herself, writes in the book's introduction.
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But this year, it's as if, in the weird circular way of fashion, sports clothing, which has been exerting its own influence in ateliers and on catwalks for the last few seasons in the form of streetwear and athleisure, has now effectively changed that game enough so that when designers move to the Olympics, their actual sportswear looks again like sportswear.
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He laid the bedrock for the modern luxury industry, and has since softened his public image, inviting the public inside the couture ateliers and Champagne estates of his brands during special "Heritage Days" events, and establishing a contemporary art museum in the Bois de Boulogne — the Fondation Louis Vuitton — which will become a gift to the city of Paris in about 503 years.
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There are still artists and artisans who make beautiful clothing priced in a way that honors both their craft and their labor; there are case studies of businesses that have managed to restore dignity and respect to their factories and ateliers, many of which appear in Thomas's writing and can be found just as easily by shoppers on web browsers and in local neighborhoods.
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Still, they're aware they're competing on a more elevated aesthetic playing ground, with strict rules and practices about handcraft and design, so they sent their team—which is working in unison for the first time, rather than simultaneously on the pre- and main collections—to Paris's couture ateliers to find collaborators: the woman who just makes rosettes, the guy who just does ribbons, the man who makes nothing but bows.
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Women may be relied upon to do much of the handwork in ateliers, but the majority of people who have really determined the way we dress — with major exceptions, including Coco Chanel, Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace and Rei Kawakubo — have been men: Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Giorgio Armani, Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Riccardo Tisci and Karl Lagerfeld among them.
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Several new exhibitors to the fair include Artpool Projects' presentation of Ghanaian artist Kwame Akoto; Copenhagen Outsider Art Gallery, which will debut work from a selection of Danish ateliers; Galerie Atelier Herenplaats (Rotterdam); Galerie LJ (Paris); Gliacrobati (Turin); Le Moineau Écarlate (Paris); Morrelandmore (Paris), which will exhibit ceramic sculptures by French actress and artist Florence Thomassin; and Tak Gallery (Poznań, Poland), the first Polish gallery dedicated to promoting Polish art brut [via email announcement].
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"We would never think of having someone just do all the sewing and then another person do the hardware," says Céline Rochereau, who after 30 years in the handbag ateliers in France and workshops worldwide now keeps track of the dozens of artisans Hermès posts, like foreign attachés, in cities around the world, in case a customer in Shanghai or Seoul or San Francisco needs a closure tweaked or a stain removed.
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Not that there aren't visual cues — via deftly manipulated projections of works by Seurat (Wendall K. Harrington) and spatial lighting (Ken Billington) — to help orient us into this musical's two worlds: that of 19th-century Paris, with its ateliers and the Seine-side Île de la Grande Jatte that Seurat immortalized; and the Chicago and Paris of 100 years later, where another artist named George confronts the slings, arrows and infinite self-doubts of his profession.
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So as projections of the artist Katerina Jebb's photo scans of nude body parts (feet and arms and breasts and groins) flowed across the plastered walls of the Margiela ateliers and were reflected in a mirrored runway, and as audience members stood clustered in the center, because standing was part of the experience, out came men and women in jackets patterned with multiple peekaboo holes, like photo negatives of polka dots cut out to reveal what was underneath.
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Whether it's bleu saphir for the panel of a Birkin or tawny caramel for a harness or juniper suede for the shoulder of a blazer — it would depend on which of the 16 ateliers she works in — the motion, as percussive as the clash of cymbals at the climax of a symphony, has been the same since the leather craftsman Thierry Hermès left Germany for Paris, using just such a stitch to craft harnesses for the gentry at the company he founded in 1837.
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